ALBERTVILLE, France — Hours before the start of Stage 19 of the Tour de France, the day’s real competition is already well underway. Civilians and workers alike stalk the caravan, seeking goodies. A gendarme engages in barter with a representative from La Vache Qui Rit (the Laughing Cow). Each side wants what the other has: merch. … Read more
COURCHEVEL, France — Lunch: indisputably one of the top-three meals of the day, but at the Tour de France, not always something the intrepid reporter can afford to prioritize. Most days involve some degree of frantic scurrying between the start and finish, hitting the road early to go stand around the team buses and ask … Read more
MONT VENTOUX, France — “I had goosebumps in the moment, it was so incredible,” Soudal-QuickStep team photographer Wout Beel said on the morning of Stage 17. “I am getting goosebumps again just talking about it, look!” he said, showing me his arm. It’s true, he was. One day earlier, one of his team’s riders had … Read more
MONTPELLIER, France — Fifteen stages and two rest days into the Tour de France, the talk of the press room is not Tadej Pogacar rampaging towards his fourth yellow jersey, brave Kevin Vauquelin trying for an unlikely top-five finish, or Jonas Vingegaard’s absurd time-trial helmet. The story that has everyone buzzing concerns events that happened … Read more
BAGNERES-DE-LUCHON, France — As we descend off the back of the Col du Tourmalet, a fan clasps her hands to her head, mouth gaping in disbelief at our speed. Markus Hoelgaard nearly overcooks a wet corner and unclips to stabilize his balance at the last second, with our car and two motos bearing down on … Read more
Bonjour et bienvenue! The 2025 Tour de France begins Saturday in Lille. If you want to about read the rhythms of the sport, you’re in luck, because we have a two-part series on that for you. If you want a preview of the three weeks of racing, you have come to the right place. A … Read more
In yesterday’s story, How To Watch Cycling, I wrote offhand that the Tour de France was “poker on two wheels.” That poker game is an important element of tactics, but it’s not the only one. With the Tour so close and so much more coverage to come, it seemed worth addressing the principles of team … Read more
VARIOUS CITIES (SOME ARGUABLY TOWNS), France — The first time I visited France, I was on the subway when a woman and a group of elementary school–aged girls rushed into the car. It was midday; I was confused, but assumed nothing. Everyone in the seats stood, which is the usual habit for making space in … Read more
The topic, in Defector’s internal chat, on Friday, was a ban, in the nation of France, on smoking in most outdoor spaces. How can the French—the French!—ban smoking? David Roth observed that “this feels like one of those things that leads to a bunch of guys in day-glow vests overturning a police van”; Kelsey McKinney … Read more