Actor Jason Momoa, known for his roles in action-packed films like Aquaman, recently spoke candidly about a terrifying experience he endured while surfing in Hawaii. In a recent interview with Smartless (check out the full interview below), the towering star recounted a harrowing incident that nearly resulted in tragedy, offering a stark reminder of the unpredictable power of the ocean, even for experienced watermen.
According to Momoa, the incident occurred several years ago at an undisclosed surf break known for its powerful waves. He described the day as initially promising, with favorable conditions that drew many surfers to the area. However, the ocean’s temperament soon shifted.
“The waves started getting bigger and more erratic,” Momoa explained, his voice turning serious as he recalled the event. “There was a strong current, and before I knew it, I was caught in a bad spot. A massive set came through, and I got wiped out.”
Consequently, Momoa found himself tumbled beneath the churning water, struggling against the immense force of the wave. Disoriented and running out of breath, he fought to reach the surface. However, another wave crashed down upon him, pushing him further underwater.
“It felt like I was being held down,” he said. “I remember thinking, ‘This is it. This is how it ends.’”
Subsequently, after what felt like an eternity, Momoa managed to break free and gasp for air. But the ordeal was far from over. The relentless waves continued to pound him, and the strong current threatened to pull him further out to sea.
Fortunately, fellow surfers in the vicinity recognized the danger and quickly came to his aid. They battled the turbulent conditions to reach Momoa, eventually helping him to shore, exhausted and shaken.
“I’m so grateful to those guys,” Momoa stated. “They risked their own safety to help me. Without them, I don’t know if I would have made it.”
Following the near-drowning, Momoa admitted that the experience left a lasting impact on him. While it did not deter his love for surfing and the ocean, it instilled in him a deeper respect for its power and unpredictability.
“It was a wake-up call,” he reflected. “The ocean is an incredible force, and you can never take it for granted. Even someone as comfortable in the water as I am can get into trouble.”
Since the incident, Momoa has become an even stronger advocate for ocean safety. He frequently speaks about the importance of understanding ocean conditions, knowing one’s limits, and looking out for fellow surfers.
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